Called the 'Land Before
Time' - Ambrym is one of the few places on Earth where
you can see the seething active lava lakes in the heart of twin
volcanoes, for Ambrym Island is the remains of a huge volcano plunging
into the surrounding Pacific Ocean.
Arctic core samples verify
that a thousand years ago it erupted with such force, thirty cubic
kilometres of earth ejected into the atmosphere, altering the planet's
climate for the next three years. The now collapsed caldera in the
island's centre is twelve kilometres across! On the edge of the
caldera, two active cones, now named Mount Benbow and Mount Maroum,
sit side by side.
Today, Benbow and Maroum
volcanoes still rumble away and smaller vents and fractures ooze
steam and lava. Standing on the rim of Maroum, the very core of
the lava lake can be seen swirling and spitting in endless fury.
By aircraft, on a clear day, it is possible to see both Benbow and
Maroum's lava lakes.
The roughly triangle
shaped island has airstrips on the West coast at Lamen Bay and at
Endou, on the East coast. Vanair offer regularly scheduled services
to both airstrips. There are few roads along the coast and many
are unserviceable during the wet season.
IT is NOT possible to
fly into Ambrym and simply hike up the mountains and camp where
you like. You must pay entry fees for all land in Vanuatu is 'owned'
by tradition. A local guide is necessary at all times for the constantly
changing conditions can make it a dangerous place for the unwary.
At this time, there are only three places offering accommodation,
tours and treks on the island.
Solomon Douglas Bungalows
can be reached by a 3 hour launch from Craig Cove to Ranon in the
North. It is a spectacular journey along a coastline of compressed
fracture lines and mud flows, jungle covered craters and inactive
lava flows. Black sand beaches are extremely hot, not so much because
of the sun, but the boiling weather bubbling up from beneath. Both
Benbow and Maroum volcanoes can be seen in the background
Milee Sea Bungalows
on the West coast are by road south of Craig Cove. The road takes
a fascinating journey through primitive villages, alternating between
raw jungle, coconut plantations and traversing lava flows. Benbow
Volcano can be seen in the background.
From both Milee and Solomon
Douglass, walking tours can be prearranged to the Ash Plain within
the collapsed caldera at the top of the island. Ash plain however
is a misnomer, for the the walk to the 'plain' is beyond description,
a primeval world of ancient tree ferns and eerie mist shrouded jungle.
The acid rain prevents
vegetation growing in many areas and the nuclei of the constantly
erupting vents ensures frequent, often heavy rainfall. When you
arrive at the 'plain', it is to find a jagged black moonscape of
land forms torn apart and reformed after every erosive rainstorm.
Solomon Douglass
have tents and it is possible to spend one or more nights on the
Ash Plain, even on the rim of Maroum, with the lava lake bubbling
and hissing all night.........
It is also possible to
arrange a circular tour that includes the launch trip northeast
from Craig Cove to Ranon, spend time here to visit the Custom villages
of Ranvetlan to see a demonstration of the famous ROM dance, or
perhaps a half day walk into the foothills to see Fanla, then trek
to Maroum Volcano. You can cross the Ash Plain in a westerly direction,
past Benbow and down the western coast to Milee Bungalows. You need
to allow a minimum of one week for such a journey - and you should
be reasonably fit and prepared to endure a bit of discomfort, although
it is not unsuitable for active older children accustomed to walking
and camping.
For those who undertake
such a journey, even a day trip from Milee or overnight tour from
Ranon to the volcanoes and back, it is without question the experience
of a lifetime.
You will leave Ambrym
having stepped back not a thousand, but millions of years in time,
to a world long since forgotten by civilised man. It will leave
you forever changed in the way you see the world.
